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I'. D. V. WARNER.

MANUPAGTURE 0F GORSBTS. n

No. 256,180. Patented Apr. 11,1882.

' the manufacture,

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

MANUFACTURE OF CORSETS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 256,180, dated April 11, 1882, Application filed January itil, ISS). (Specimens.)

To all 'whom it may concern Be it known that I, I. DE VER WYARNER, of Bridgeport, Fairlield county, Connect icn t, have invented certain Improvements in the Manntncture of Corsets, ot which the following is a specification.

My invention consists in a mode of manufacturing corsets, bosom-pads, &c., whereby to secure a better sot and shape, impart greater rigidity and stil'ness, reduce the cost of making the articles, and secure greater durability.

Heretofore it has been common in making corsets to make the entire corset of cloth in sections pit-ced together. forming,r the pockets in each section, and inserting the bones or ribs separately, either in the pockets before the connection ofthe sections together or after each connection is made. This mode ofmannfacture is open to serions objections. Thus the insertion ofthe ribs or bones is tedious, delays and consequently increases the expense, unless the pockets are made so largethat theribscan bestippcd in quickly; but

a rib lying Ioosebin a pocket will not impart l such stiffness to the corset as one which is closely eonned, and is apt to work in the pocket until the end formsa hole in the cloth, and, further, is liable to break, while the oor set is apt to creep np and wrinkle upon the bones and lose its shape. Another objection to the ordinary methods of manufacture arises from the diieulty ofprcssing, condensing, and linshing an article so irregular in shape as a corset is when all the sections are connected and boned. I overcome these objections in the manner which I trill now describe and by the means shown in the drawings, in wbieh- Figure 1 is a transverse section, showing the manner in which the bones are laid in the sections. Fig. 2 is a view showing the manner of manufacture where continuons rib material is used. Fig. 3 is a longitudinal section through the boned corset'seetion.

I discard the ordinary method o t' forming pockets and of inserting the bones or ribs longitudinally, and instead thereof place cach bone or rib in position between the two sheets of fabric constituting thefront and back portions of the sections or corset, and then ses' the two together by aline of stitches as close to the rib or bone as possible. Thus the sheetsb e, Fig.

l, are sen-ed together along the line r, a rib, a., is placed between the sheets close to the stitch ing, and another line ot stitches formed at a: close to the edge ot the rib, another rib is placed between the sheets and stitched, and so on until the requisite number is inserted.

Many advantages result from this mode of inserting and securing thcribs. In the first place, no more time is required than usually needed to form the ordinary pockets, thus saving the time, labor,and expense of inserting the bones longitudinally in pocketsalready formed; secondly, the ribs serre as guides after one is inset-telf to insure straight lines of stitching with but little. care on the partei' the operator; thirdly, sheetsot fabric are draw n by the stitching close over the bones, so that the latter are held so tight in the pockets that there can be no play and near, nor can the corset wrinkle np on the rihs,wixlc the rigidity ot the article is greatly increased without dotracting from its flexibility. Another important advantage of themode of inserting the ribs results from the ability to use rib material formed in continuons lengths and drawn from a. reel and out oil' at the extreme edge of each section. Thus a reel, I3, supplied with a coil of rib material, (ns tampieo liber formed into a continuous strip,) is mounted in hearings adjacent to the setvin gmachine, and the operator, taking the loose end, inserts it between the fabrics ot' a oorsetsection,A, seus along aline close tothe rib, then places another section, A', on the work-plate, and adjusts the rib between the sheets and sens it, and after this is completed docs the same with a third section, A2, and so on with succeeding sections, as man yZns may be desirable, and after the rib is secured in the last. section, A2, cuts itclose to the edge at y, and carries the loose end to the first section, and repeats the operations again and again nntil the requisite number of ribs are in each section. The ribs are then cnt close to the edges y ot each section, thus forming sections in which the ribs aro closely confined in the pockets in the act ol forming the latter, and in which such ribs extend fully to the edges. The latter fact is one ot' much importance, as when the binding b, Fig. 3, is applied'nnd sem-d along the line c to the edge of the seetion the ribs are setved firmly to the binding,`-

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and to the cloth pieces b c, the stitches passivi: through the ribs, so that it is impossible for the ribs to slip or work loose, while their ends. bem' on the binding, and not on the body cloth, nml cannot work through the latter. The curb ing ot' the edges ot the corset, which results when the rihs extend only n part ot' the length,

`is also prevented.

In pince of sewing the ribbed sections to the other sections, and thus forming: the body of the corset, and then pressing the latter, ns is ordinarily done, I press each section while it is Bat and before sewing it to the other parts. I thus avoid the ditiicnlties of iinishing un irregularly-shaped article, and nin enabled to piace a number of flat sections upon the tint plnte of npress, and nt one operation applyl I have found that by the operations above described I :un enabled to greatly reduce the i 3o cost of making the corset and the length of time required, and make n corset which is sheets ot' fabric, and then sewing the letter to' gether close to the edges oi' the ribs, thereby securing the ribs in the pockets ns the sume are londe, substantially as set'.- forth.

2. The mode of boiling corsetl sections herein set forth, the same consisting in inserting the end portion ot' n continuous stili' supporting strip or rib between the outer and inner faces of the section, sewing the sume together along the edge ol' the rib, :1nd then sewing the rib prior to ngnin insertingnndsewing itin pince, substantially ns set forth.

3. In the nmnui'netnre of corsets the mode of finishing described, consisting in inserting the bones in pockets in the separate sections, pressingthe samemnd then sewing them into the corset, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of 'two subi seribing witnesses.

I. DE VER WARNER. Witnesses CHARLES E. Fos'rnn, F, 0. McGLEAnr.

It is hereby eert'ied that in Letters Patent N u. 256,150, grunted April ll, m52, tu

I. De Ver Tamer of Bridgeport, Coun., for an improvementin tln.l Manufacture nl' Corsets, the word severing in line 48, page 2 nf the printed spwitvntion attnrhml to and forming :1- part of said Letters Patent, was errnnemzsly printed sr-u'lxg'g" that the proper correct-ions have been made i/the [iles and records u1' tln- PMM (mw m1 are hereby made in said Letters lntenlf.

Signed, countersigued :md sealed this lth rlzly ut' April, A. h. MSL.

[SEAL] i A. mam.

Cmmtersi gut-d E. M. MARBLE,

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